Deogarh is situated on the boundaries of Mewar, Marwar and
Merwara, about 80 miles north-east of Udaipur, in Rajasthan. With an
altitude of about 2100 ft, it is cooler than other parts of Rajasthan. 'The
Rawat', chief of Deogarh, was one of sixteen umraos (feudal barons) entitled
to wait upon the Maharana of Udaipur, the capital of Mewar.
These
type of feudal estates, called 'Thikanas' were sanctioned by the ruling
Maharana to a nobleman either due to blood relationship or for an act of
bravery. Deogarh is also has famous school of miniature painting. Some
Deogarh miniatures are in the personal collection of the present Rawat
Sahib. Frescoes of this art form can also be seen on the fort walls. There
are some interesting rooms in the palace to venture through, like Sheesh
Mahal, the colourful hall of mirrors, is one of them.
Entering
the PalaceIt is the public face of the Deogarh rulers that we
encounter first. The gateway into the front courtyard passes beneath the Kacheri
where justice was administered - reminding us immediately that they held
powers of life and limb over their subjects. Then the richly painted palace
entrance leads us up, past a couple of small family shrines, through a
series of narrow passages and staircases. (A grander entrance route would
have been harder to defend!) But notice how well-worn the steps are here,
compared with other parts of the palace. This is the area that saw the heavy
traffic, the villagers coming to pay their feudal dues or seek some judicial
remedy. Their business took them only as far as the first floor, where the
revenue and general administration departments were located at the front of
the building.
The Central CourtyardEmerging
onto the second floor where the hotels house keeping desk is now
located, it is difficult to imagine that this little piazza,
proudly displaying the white marble Deogarh throne, was a relatively late
addition to the palace. Not the surrounding buildings but the actual floor
on which you are standing. It used to drop straight down to a garden on the
level below.
There is another room on the first floor, exactly
like the bar lounge immediately above it on this level, giving the building
a symmetry that has now been obscured. But originally, if you had wanted to
cross from here to the Bar on the other side, you would have had to use one
of the narrow galleries that once encircled this space.
Perhaps
more intriguingly, the back wall used to be a shallow, almost
two-dimensional screen, with many more than the handful of jali
windows that you can see today. It must have been remarkably like a rustic
variant of the famous Hawa Mahal (or Palace of the Winds) in Jaipur
that extraordinary building, little more than a façade, that was
designed to give the Maharanis in the City Palace a discreet view of the
outside world from its dozens of "jalis".
According to one
version of events, this similarity is no coincidence. Pratap Singh, the
younger son of Maharaja Madho Singh I of Jaipur and Princess Kundan Kunwar
of Deogarh (see Room 218), came here as a child to escape the dangerous
plottings of the nobility in Jaipur.
His decision to build the
Hawa Mahal in 1799 is said to have been directly inspired by his happy
memories of Deogarh. The Bar opening off this courtyard, is a former
reception hall. It is hung with numerous portraits, including those of
Maharana Raj Singh of Udaipur (1754-1761) on the left wall, Rawat Gokuldas
II on the left-hand side of the back wall and Rawat Ranjit Singh on the
right wall. There are also some interesting photographs here.
On
the left wall, top left is Sangram Singh II with his two sisters - looking
exactly like three brothers, except that the girls are given away by their
ankle bracelets. Bijay Singh also appears bottom left and top right (with
his staff). On the right wall are two more photographs of Bijay, top left
and centre, and one of Sangram, bottom centre. There are a number of
photographs that feature Mayo College where Rawat Nahar Singh ji II taught
as a History master after Independence..
The Heart
of the PalaceAnop Singh's adoptive father, Kishan Singh ji
(1867-1900) is commemorated by Room 206 - Kishan Kunj. Kishan
pictured here in a couple of photographs seems to have been a
colourful man with several wives and numerous concubines.
But he
was also a great devotee of Lord Krishna and this is reflected in the
decoration of this room, with various paintings of Lord Krishna and even a
canopied ceiling of stars to evoke Kishans favourite deity. However,
the room was never a bedroom in Kishans own day. It was originally a
broad passage, leading behind the Hawa Mahal look-alike.
The
room incorporates some of the few small jali windows that survive from this,
with other original stained glass windows on the opposite side. It also
enjoys the benefit of a small private terrace. Deogarh is accessible both by
rail and road. It is a couple of miles east of National Highway No 8. By
rail, it is on the Western Railway Route, between Udaipur and Marwar
junction.